Friday, July 3, 2009
July 2 - Mostar
Patricia and I were joined by Rachel from Australia this morning as we left the hostel for coffee. I'm experimenting with my coffee order - most coffee is served in a thimble-sized cup and although very strong and flavorful, it encourages slow sipping. I've tried ordering coffee with milk, coffee long with milk, cappuccino, nescafe with cream, Bosnian coffee, etc. And still your morning coffee is a short-lived experience unless you drink slowly.
After coffee, the man who showed us to the hostel the night before rode past on us his bike, giving us a big greeting and pointing us in the right direction to the turkish house tour. A rich Bosnian family in the turn of the century lived in still- existing traditional Turkish home. Saudi, the tour guide, told us to take our shoes off, and pointed us into the garden and the rooms for the men and women. A wife would indicate she was ready to entertain her husband by draping a white cloth over her door. The men's room was beautifully suspended over the river by columns outside the house. The ceilings were ornate beechwood mosaic. Saudi hinted that we could dress up in the traditional clothes kept in a trunk upstairs. She then told us to go tour the oldest and most important mosque in Mostar and to tell the man at the entrance that she said we didn't have to pay the entrance fee. You should have seen face when we said this, but he let us in for free.